Prehistory at Commarque

The Beune Valley has been occupied for a very long time. Around Commarque, prehistoric man has left numerous traces of his passage. Not far from the site at Commarque, Paleolithic man left two female statuettes known as the Venus of Sireuil and the Venus of Laussel.   On the other side of the valley, in the shelter at Cap Blanc, one can admire a frieze of prehistoric sculptures. Under Commarque Castle there is a cave where Magdalenian man carved animals on the wall, notably a very beautiful life-sized horse (not open to the public).

The Uncertain Origins of Commarque

The most reasonable hypothesis would be to attribute the founding of a keep at Commarque to one of the two abbots of the same name who succeeded the abbey see of Sarlat during the last third of the XIIth century: Garin (1169-1181) or Randolph de Commarque (1195-1201). The building of a tower allowed them to contain the ambitions of their vassals the Beynacs, with whom they had a relationship of conflict. It was a member of their family who obtained its guard. The first Lord of Commarque, thus, was a “milites castri” or knight, who followed orders from the Abbey of Sarlat. In the XIIth century, a concentration of population existed there, made up of a keep with living quarters, a chapel and house towers: it was the castrum of Commarque.

The Beynacs, Lords of Commarque

There is mention of Commarque in archive documents from 1255 onwards. Maynard de Beynac became the lord of the château. The house towers were held by the lineages of lesser nobles, the names of several of which are known: the Commarque, the Cendrieux, the Gondrix, the La Chapelle. Each house tower had an enclosure, its own access, and ditches. The lord and knights fought over the rights of justice, land and other property.

The Rise of the Beynacs

During the course of the XIVth century, two major lineages had the first regrouping of lands by successive acquisitions. The Beynacs succeeded in constituting a veritable castellany around Commarque when they retook the rights of Marquay and of Sireuil from the Cendrieux and imposed their suzerainty on the den of Laussel. The Commarques took back the lands and rights from the descendants of the other knights, either by buying them or through alliances. From the middle of the XIVth century, the entire lower courtyard had become the noble house of the Commarques: they now disposed of a defensive parameter largely exceeding that of the Château of Beynac.

The Patrimony of the Beynacs Combined

In 1379 Pons de Beynac, Lord of Commarque, married Philippa, 12 years of age, heiress of the lords of Beynac. By this alliance, the lords of Commarque acquired the castellany of Beynac and its dependencies.

The Hundred Years’ War

During the Hundred Years’ War, the Beynacs stayed faithful defenders of the throne of France. Pons de Beynac enjoyed several political favors: he was among the clients of Beaufort-Turenne, of the Avignon papacy and of the Anjou party. The extension of Commarque Castle between 1370 and 1380 has been attributed to him. He undertook heightening the keep and the curtain wall, and had the crown of machicolations built which was inspired by the Palace of the Popes in Avignons.

The Decline of the Beynacs and the Commarques

Nevertheless, the Beynacs came out of the Hundred Years’ War badly. First of all, in 1406, the English, driven by Archambaud d’Abzac, seized hold of Commarque. The whole family was brought together and made prisoner. A tax, ordered by the king, was levied on the inhabitants of Perigord and Quercy to pay the ransom. The castellany of Commarque began to break up. In 1395, Pons lost the suzerainty over Laussel . He was unable to retain Domme. And in 1441, the Beynacs went under the influence of the Count of Perigord, a visible sign of their political weakening. During the 1500s, it seems that the resident families had already deserted the castrum of Commarque.

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The Wars of Religion

During the Wars of Religion, the Beynacs were loyal to the cause of the Reform. From Commarque, which was his base of operation, Geoffroy, Baron of Beynac and Lord of Commarque, launched several attacks on Catholic hideouts in the area and even furtively took hold of Sarlat. In 1569, Commarque Castle was taken for the first time by the Catholics led by the seneschal and by the Governor of Perigord. It is without doubt following this siege that the vaulted room collapsed. As the new master of Commarque, Geoffroy installed a garrison there which, by way of reprisal, would be hanged the same year.

The Abandon and Renaissance of Commarque

Guy de Beynac, the last castellan living in Commarque Castle, died there in 1656. The site was definitively abandoned in XVIIIth century. A century later the castle was in ruins. In 1968, Hubert de Commarque bought his ancestors’ ruins. He undertook the consolidation of the most damaged parts. Since 1994 there have been successive phases of consolidation and restoration. Hubert of Commarque has given Kleber Rossillon, the creator of the Museum of Medieval Warfare in Castelnaud Castle and the Gardens of Marqueyssac, the task of opening the Commarque site to the public. A program of archeological research has been in place for several years.

2012 Opening Hours

• April: 10 am – 6 pm
• May, June, September: 10 am – 7 pm
• July and August: 10 am – 8 pm Last admissions 1 hour before closing.
• Half term holiday: 10:30 am – 6 pm (Saturday Oct 27th – Wednesday Nov 7th)

2012 Ticket prices

• Individual prices Adults: 6,50 €
• Students and Children (12 to 17 yrs): 5,00 €
• Children (6 to 10): 3,50 €
• Children (under 6): free
• Group price (for 20 or more persons) Adults: 5 € Children: 2,50 €

Located in Les Eyzies, on the Sarlat road, Font de Gaume Cave is a showpiece of Magdalenian engravings and paintings from around 14 000 BC. The flints (chisels, scrapers, blades) and other things found in the cave during the excavations testify to a continual occupation since the Mousterian age, or the age of the Neanderthals.

Discovered in 1901 by D. Peyrony, the Cave, 130 m long, contains about 250 paintings. The visitor can only see 30 of them, the most beautiful ones and the best preserved. After 60 m underground, the “Rubicon” is the beginning of the decorated part of the cave, with red dots on the left wall. These caves were not used as dwellings, they were shrines, according to A. Leroi-Gourhan The Grotte de Font-de-Gaume is famous for its cave paintings from the Magdalénien period. It is entrance is 20 m above the valley floor of the Beune valley, at the lower edege of a huge limestone rock.

There are many polychrome paintings and some engravings. The 240 figures show 80 bisons, which are the dominant motive. Most other pictures are also animals, 40 mammoths, 23 horses, 17 reindeers and deer, eight primitive cow, four goats, a wolf, a bear, and two rhinoceroses. More interesting, but less frequent, are four hand outlines and 19 geometric figures.

The cave was first settled by Stone Age people during the last Ice Age – about 25,000 BC – when the Dordogne was the domain of roaming bison, reindeer and mammoths. The cave mouth is no more than a fissure concealed by rocks and trees above a small lush valley, while inside, it’s a narrow twisting passage of irregular height in which you quickly lose your bearings in the dark. The first painting you see is a frieze of bison, at about eye level: reddish-brown in colour, massive, full of movement, and very far from the primitive representations you might expect. Further on a horse stands with one hoof slightly raised, resting. But the most miraculous of all is a frieze of five bison discovered in 1966 during cleaning operations. The colour, remarkably sharp and vivid, is preserved by a protective layer of calcite. Shading under the belly and down the thighs is used to give three-dimensionality with a sophistication that seems utterly modern. Another panel consists of superimposed drawings, a fairly common phenomenon in cave painting, sometimes the result of work by successive generations, but here an obviously deliberate technique. A reindeer in the foreground shares legs with a large bison behind to indicate perspective.

Getting Here

Location: Les Eyzies-de-Tayac. 1km from the centre of Eyzies on the left side of the Beune valley.

Open:

• MAR Thu-Tue 9:30-12 + 14-17:30.
• APR-SEP Thu-Tue 9-12 + 14-18.
• OCT Thu-Tue 9:30-12 + 14-17:30.
• NOV-FEB Thu-Tue 10-12 + 14-17.

• Atelier Musee des Tisserands et de la Charentaise Contained within the Castle of Varaignes, this working weaving museum and the museum of the Bandiat – Tardoire valleys offers a glimpse of local life in the 19th century. Located at Varaignes.Tel: 05 53 56 35 76
• Ateliers Musee A mineral and gem stone museum found at the foot of the Castelnaud Castle. Located in Vezac. Tel: 05 53 28 35 78

• Chateau de Beynac et Cazenac The Beynac and Cazenac Castle occupies a dominant position on the rocky cliffs overlooking the Dordogne river. Reconstructed by Lord Beynac it’s architecture dates from the 13th century. Tel: 05 53 29 50 40
• Chateau de Biron The Biron Castle dates from the 12th century. It was one of the 4 Perigord baronies and owned by the Gontaut-Biron family for 8 centuries. Located in Biron near Monpazier. Tel: 05 53 63 13 39
• Chateau de Bourdeilles Features a fortress from the 13th – 15th centuries. Offers an interesting collection of cupboards, carpets, wardrobes from the 16th and 17th centuries. Open throughout the year. Located near Brantome. Tel: 05 53 03 73 36
• Chateau de Bruzac The ruins of the Bruzac Castle can be found between st Pierre de Cole and St Jean Tel: 05 53 03 70 74
• Chateau de Castelnaud This reconstructed castle overlooks the Dordogne and faces the Chateau Marqueyssac. Built in the 12th century the Castle experienced British rule from 1259 -1273. See website for more details (in French). Tel: 05 53 31 30 00
• Chateau de Chabans The Chabans Castle has been owned by some of the most prominent families of Dordogne. The castle dates back to the 15th century. It played a role in the Resistance movement when Jacques Chaban-Delmas took his “nom de guerre” from the castle. Tel: 05 53 51 70 60
• Chateau de Duras Castle dated from the middle age offers an architecture mixing middle-age and the 18th century. Located in Duras, Lot et Garonne (47). Tel: 05 53 83 77 32
• Chateau de Fenelon At Ste. Mondain between Sarlat and Soillac (24). An opportunity to visit a furnished Chateaux with it’s antique furniture and historical architecture. Pets are not permitted. Tel: 05 53 29 81 45 Fax: 05 53 29 88 99
• Chateau de Fratteau The Fratteau Castle dominates domain of the new prison. Built in the 12th and 17th century it has preserved chimneys from the 15th and 16th century. Now also home to potters. Located at the exit of Neuvic sur l’Isle. Tel: 05 53 81 11 02
• Chateau de Hautefort A classical castle built in the 9th century on a rocky spur. It once belonged to the viscounts of Limoges and features the Long Tower, The Palm Tower and The Prison Tower. Located in Hautefort. See website for more details. Tel: 05 53 50 51 23
• Chateau de Jumilhac le Grand The castle was originally built in the 13th century and used to act as a line of defence during many incursions. Well known for its unique roofs that were built around the 1600’s. Located at Jumilhac Le Grand. Tel: 05 53 52 42 97
• Chateau de L’Herm The Herm Castle was built at the end of the 15th century but was abandoned. Today it is going through a period of restauration. See website for details. Located at Rouffignac Saint Cernin de Reilhac. Tel: 05 53 05 46 61
• Chateau de Lanquis A combination of architectural styles from palatial renaissance to a medieval fort created this elegant chateau. Well know for its chimneys. Open all year except from 15 January to 15 February. Tel: 05 53 63 65 00
• Chateau de Mareuil The Mareuil Castle formed one of the four baronies of Perigord. Owned by the Talleyrand family, it comprised an effective defensive system. A visit to the castle takes one back to the 100 year war and is an excellent tribute to Napoleon. At Mareuil. Tel: 05 53 60 99 85
• Chateau de Monbazillac This 26th century chateau is home to a museum dedicated to wine-making, arts and local traditions, 17th century perigord furniture and protestanism. The 4 ha parc is open to the public. Open throughout the year. Call for times. Tel: 05 53 63 65 00
• Chateau de Montfort The Montfort castle has been razed to the ground 4 times. Once in 1254 by Simon of Montfort, once during the 100 year war, once under Louis the 11th and finally under Henry the 4th. Restauration work has been underway since the 19th century. Tel: 05 53 28 57 80
• Chateau de Neuvic The Neuvic Castle was built in 1520 along the banks of the Isle. The architecture shows the transiton from Medieval Time to the Renaissance. Located at Neuvic sur l’Isle. Tel: 05 53 80 86 65
• Chateau de Puyferrat The Puyferrat Castle was built in the 16th century and features a totally covered walkway that offers a panoramic view onto the neighbouring countryside. A chapel that hosts the family vault was built in 1825. Located near St Astier. Tel: 05 53 07 86 26
• Chateau de Puyguilhem The Puyguilhem Castle was built during the First Renaissance and is a fine example of a Francoise 1st castle. Located near the village of Villars.
• Chateau de Puymartin The Puymartin Castle is be found between Sarlat and Les Eyzies. Occupied by the English in 1358 the castle has managed to preserve its furniture, carpets, paintings and other works for over 5 centuries. Tel: 05 53 59 29 97
• Chateau de Sanxet Located 3km west of Monbazillac, they offer a prestige car museum. They also rent rooms for receptions. Tel: 05 53 58 37 46
• Chateau de Sauveboeuf 16th Century castle, classified as a national monument. Displays a Louis the 18th style. Located in Aubas near Montignac. Tel: 05 53 51 89 46
• Chateau des Bernadiers Built on the side of a rocky slope around a high tower with views dominating Nizonne. This castle was no stranger to the 100 year war. The counts d’Aydie increased the castle and built terraces. Located at Champeaux et la Chapelle Pommier. Tel: 05 53 60 38 59
• Chateau des Bories Constructed on the banks of a river, the Bories Castle is an example of pure classical Perigourdian architecture. The castle dates from the 15th century. Located at Antonne et Trigonant near Perigueux. Tel: 05 53 06 00 01
• Chateau des Milandes At Castlenaud-la-Chapelle. A French chateau located in the heart of the Dordogne countryside with an exhibition relating to the life of Josephine Baker. There is also wildlife to discover on the castle grounds. Tel: 05 53 59 31 21 Fax: 05 53 29 17 33
• Chateau et Jardins de Losse At Thonac (24). An opportunity to discover this 15th century castle and gardens of Losse.Take a tour around the moat and renaissance hall, which exhibit fine 16th & 17th century tapestries. Tel: 05 53 50 80 08 Fax: 05 53 50 80 08
• Chateau l’Eveque Located on the D939 north of Perigueux. The Bishops Castle was where Saint Vincent de Paul was ordained priest in the 1600’s. Tel: 05 53 04 66 84
• Chateau Saint Michel de Montaigne The Montaigne Castle dates back to the 15th century. This is where Saint Michael wrote his famous essays from. Located at Saint Michel de Montaigne. Tel: 05 53 58 63 69 Fax: 05 53 58 63 93
• Chateau Varaignes It’s facade boasts a mix of Medieval and Renaissance styles from the 13th and 16th century. The village bought the castle in 1965 and won an award for the restoration of the castel. Located in Varaignes. Tel: 05 53 56 35 76
• Cloiture des Recollets The House of Wine on Quai Salvette in Bergerac. This 17th century “Cloiture” exhibits the historical link between Bergerac wine and the history of Bergerac. Open June to September. Tel: 05 53 63 57 55
• Eco-musee de la Noix Walnut farm and museum located in the heart of the Perigord noir region. Documentary film in English shown. There is also a shop selling the local farm produce from walnut cakes to walnut wine. Tel: 05 53 59 69 63 Fax: 05 53 28 59 34
• Ecomusee de la Truffe Contains plenty of information regarding truffles. Located at Sorges. Tel: 05 53 05 90 11
• Institute du Tabac A tobacco research institute that has an extensive collection of different types of tobacco products. The institute opens its doors to the public in the summer. Located at Domaine de la Tour on route de Sainte-Alvére in Bergerac. Tel: 05 53 63 66 00
• Le Musee Costi A collection of works by the Greek sculptor Constantin Papachristopolous. Exhibited in a 12th century crypt in the Saint Jacques presbytery in Bergerac. Ask at the Mayor’s office for more details. Tel: 05 53 74 66 66.
• Le Musee du Perigord On Cours Tourny, Perigueux. An interesting presentation of fine arts and french archeology. There is also a zoological section. Tel: 05 53 06 40 70 Fax: 05 53 06 40 71
• Le Musee du Thot The Thot Museum comprises an animal park and an exhibition centre. In the park one can see species of animal that closely resemble those that historically could be found there. Located at Thonac. Tel: 05 53 50 70 44
• Musee Atelier du Trompe-L’Oeil et du Decor Paint The Trompe-L’Oeil and Decorative Paint Museum is unique in Europe. It is possible to see demonstrations of work in progress. Located at 5 rue Emile Combes in Perigueux. Tel: 05 53 09 84 40
• Musee d’Histoire Locale The local history museum in Villefranche de Lonchat contains portraits, costumes and more. Located at Villefranche de Lonchat near Saint Michel de Montaigne. Tel: 05 53 81 21 39
• Musee de Cognac A museum dedicated to manufacturing Cognac. The process is clearly explained and the tools clearly displayed. Located in St Aulaye. Tel: 05 53 90 81 33
• Musee de l’Or Located in the basement of the Castle of Jumilhac le Grand. The museum takes one back to Gaul times when gold was mined in the region. Tel: 05 53 52 55 43
• Musee de la Carte Postale Ancienne du Perigord The Historical Postcards Museum of Perigord offers more than 33 000 exhibits. Founded by Henry Brives. Located at Saint Pardoux la Riviere. Tel: 05 53 60 76 10
• Musee de la Ferblanterie Offers more than 1000 white & galvanised iron exhibits dating from the 18th century till today. At La Tour Blanche near Riberac. Tel: 05 53 91 11 98
• Musee de la Medicine This medical museum in Hautefort, is housed in what was known as a poorhouse that housed local destitutes. The building was finished in 1740 and now hosts the tourist office, a weavers workshop and the medicam museum. See website for more details. Tel: 05 53 50 40 27
• Musee de la Paleontologie et de la Vie Sauvage Includes 3000 articles of paleonthology covering 700 million years. The Musee de la Vie Sauvage boasts more than 1000 stuffed exhibits. Open June to September. Located at 9 rue de la Republic in La Bugue sur Vezere. Tel: 05 53 08 28 10
• Musee de la Pierre Taillee This sculptured stone museum displays stomes from the Paleothique and Neolithique periods. Tel: 05 53 60 99 85
• Musee de la Prehistoire. Offres visitors an original projection room amongst the rocks. Offer various examples of sculptured rocks and Magdalenian art. Located at Teyjat. Tel: 05 53 56 30 29
• Musee des Arts et Traditions Populaires The Museum of Arts and Popular Traditions in Mussidan assembled this collection of artifacts from yesteryear including furniture and other objects. Tel: 05 53 81 23 55
• Musee des Records situated in the “salle polyvalent”, it offers a light hearted history of the songs that featured for the town’s annual August festival. Located at La Tour Blanche near Riberac. Tel: 05 53 91 11 98
• Musee des Rois d’Araucanie The Museum of the King of Araucanie celebrates Antoine de Tounens who left for Patagonia in 1860 where he declared himself king. He was expelled by the Chilean police in 1860. Medals and official documentation are on show. Located in Chourgnac near Sorge Tel: 05 53 51 12 76
• Musee du Foie Gras Discover how geese and ducks are raised, how “Foie Gras” is processed and learn about how to prepare it. At place de Marechal Foch, Thiviers, Dordogne (24). Tel: 05 53 55 12 50
• Musee du Suaire The relic of St Suaire is to be found in the Cadouin Abbey. Built in 1115, the abbey has recently been declared a world heritage site. Located in Cadouin. Tel: 05 53 63 36 28
• Musee du Tabac A tobacco museum located at Place du Feu in Bergerac. Displays a large selection of tobacco paraphernalia. Open in season. Tel: 05 53 63 04 13
• Musee du Ver a Soie An interesting and educational silkworm museum. Located at Saint Just near Riberac. Tel: 05 53 90 73 60
• Musee du Vin de la Tonnellerie et de la Batellerie A museum dedicated to the making of wine barrels and related objects. Located at 5 rue des Conferences in Bergerac. Tel: 05 53 57 80 92
• Musee Eugene le Roy To be found in the old Saint Jean l’Evangeliste Hospital. It is dedicated to the writings of Eugene Le Roy who died in the city in 1907. Displays his writings, photos, clothing and other souvenirs. Located in Montignac. Tel: 05 53 51 82 60
• Musee Fossiles The Fossil Museum features a 5.5m high and 11m long metalique sculpture of a Tyrannosaurus-Rex amongst other exhibits. Located in Peyzac le Moustier near Montignac. Tel: 05 53 50 81 02
• Musee Gallo Romain Vesunna At Rue 26eme RI, Perigueux. Conceived by Jean Nouvel, this museum presents one of the most significant archeological remains in Aquitaine. Tel: 05 53 53 00 92
• Musee Militaire du Perigord The Perigord Military Museum is at 32 Rue des Farges, Perigueux. Presents over 13000 pieces on French military history. Tel: 05 53 53 47 36
• Musee Napoleon An opportunity to visit the Museum of Napoleon and to view his family history. Situated within the grounds of Chateau de la Pommerie in the heart of Cendrieux, Dordogne (24). Tel: 05 53 03 24 03 Fax: 05 53 03 22 39
• Musee National de Prehistoire Offers an extremelly comprehensive and chronologically ordered exhibition covering the Paleolithic period. Located at Les Eyzies. Tel: 05 53 06 45 45 Fax: 05 53 06 45 55

A list of Dordogne Markets and Dordogne Market days

Agonac : Saturday
Beaumont : Tuesday, Saturday
Belves : Saturday
Bergerac : Saturday, Wednesday
Brantome : Tuesday, Friday
Cenac : Tuesday
Cubjac : Friday
Daglan : Sunday
Domme : Thursday
Eymet : Thursday
Excideuil : Thursday
Issigeac : Sunday
Jumilhac : Wednesday
La Coquille : Thursday
Lalinde : Thursday
La Roche Chalais : Saturday
Le Bugue Tuesday
Le Buisson – Cadouin : Friday
Les Eyzies : Monday
Mareuil : Tuesday
Monpazier : Thursday
Montpon : Wednesday
Montignac : Saturday, Wednesday
Mussidan : Saturday
Neuvic : Saturday, Tuesday
Nontron : Saturday
Perigeux : Saturday, Wednesday
Piegut : Wednesday
Razac : Saturday, Wednesday
Riberac : Tuesday, Friday
Rouffignac : Sunday
Salignac-Eyvigues : Tuesday
Sarlat : Saturday, Wednesday
Sigoules : Friday
Sorges : Sunday
St Aulaye : Saturday
St Astier : Thursday
St Cyprien : Sunday
St Genies : Sunday
Terrasson : Thursday
Thenon : Tuesday
Thiviers : Saturday
Tocane : Monday
Tremolat : Tuesday
Vergt : Friday
Villefranche du Perigord : Saturday